Ok? Ok. Ok?

When I went on my first "big" trip, a backpacking adventure with my friends Kate and Kevin through Europe post-college, we documented the experience by writing an "I learned" book throughout the trip. These little "I learned" books were popular at the time so I thought it would be a good idea to create one ourselves as we ate, drank and frolicked through several countries in the EU. The basic premise is to write down things you've learned- both literally and through observation. For example, some of the things I have learned thus far on our Africa trip:
1. Nutmeg is used by Muslim women to get a confidence boosting buzz if they are too shy to dance at a party.
2. Don't order the pizza at the bar named after former resident Freddy Mercury in Zanzibar.
3. I would not make it one night alone in the bush.

This last point occurred to me the other night while we were camping in Selous game reserve in Tanzania. Selous is extremely large and known to be one of the real "wild" game parks given its size and absence of visitors. We were the only guests at this campsite and it was located on a hippo/croc infested river (seems to be the theme of our campsites). Anyway, Col and I retired to bed around 8pm...our typical African bed time. As the blank of night covered us completely and the chorus of evening sounds began I started to think about what it would be like to have to sleep out in the bush. Giant bugs the size of small birds were hitting the tent. Monkeys were laughing above us. Hippos began their snorting as they made their way from the river. Something much larger than an elephant shrew was chomping its way past the back of our tent. The idea of being out there all alone was one that made me snuggle deeper into my reliable sleep sack. (Normally I would have cuddled closer to Colin but unfortunately we are both suffering from a bit of the old Tanzanian tummy. Personal space is a must at a time like this.)

I also couldn't help but think of a book both Colin and I recently finished: A Long Way Gone. It's the firsthand account of a child soldier during Sierra Leone's civil war. My friend Wendy had taken me to an author's book signing this past September but I had yet to read the story until I came here. The story is told by a young man who experienced the death of his entire family at the hands of teenage rebels and then went on to become one of these child soldiers himself. The book is an incredible read - even more so when you are in Africa and can picture the village by looking out the car window. Anyway, one part of the book that is glossed over a bit is the fact that this kid, at age 12, had to spend months alone in the bush. He just kind of mentions it and moves on. Had I been reading this at home I might have done the same but when confronted with the realities of the bush at night it made me really reflect on how truly scary that would be. I mean, I'm thinking this while safely tucked into a tent, family doing fine at home and not a single rebel to be found. Reminded me again how lucky we all are to be born into our lives as we know them and not forced to sleep in a tree night after night.

One other thing I've learned on this trip so far is that a single shared word may be the key to communication. In this instance the word is "okay". A word we take for granted and use in abundance without even realizing its power. In our African adventure it is a word that can make or break the experience. For instance, if you are out on a game drive with a non-English speaking driver, "okay" will dictate exactly how long you will spend watching an animal. This driver has no idea what your personal interests are and therefore will weight the importance of seeing a lion slaughtering a cape buffalo the same as say a guinea fowl pecking at some dirt. He will stop. You will look. When you are done you say "ok" and he will move on. We haven't tried it yet but I wonder...if you never said "ok" would you sit there all night? Certainly seems that way. The same is true for ordering food. You look at the menu (fish with rice, chicken with rice, beef with rice). You point and say "beef with rice". The waitress will say okay. You'll say okay. She might say "potato?" and you might make a big mistake and say "no, that's okay." An hour later she will walk back with a big pile of potatoes - no beef or rice to be found. You just can't fool around with okay.

So far the "I learned" list is a long one. We can't believe its only been a little over a month since we left home. I assume that it will only get longer as we go along. Speaking of...we are currently on a mountain village heading to Ruaha, Tanzania. After a quick stay at what Skank calls a "flash camp" we will be making our way to internet-less Malawi. Don't give up on us...check back when you can because stranger things have happened than finding a random internet shack in the middle of nowhere.

Oh, and a final I learned...I learned that Mrs. Ozar was right when she said the one thing she'll never get used to is how off the cuff nose picking is in Africa. The waitress, the policeman at a road block, the customs official...and the adorable south African Skank who is driving us around this part of the world. Please pass the Purell, it's a long drive.

Love to all....